If you are subscribed to the Volcom email newsletter then you may have already seen this. So ignore it if it’s old news to you. But seeing as Marty was in the 3rd issue I thought you all might want to see the waves he surfs for fun. Say what you will about tow-in surfing, but this is insane. Read more to hear what Marty has got to say about the above shot (I’m not sure who took the photo, sorry).
“Yeah it was a bit of a surprise really. It was only saying 21 feet so we didn’t think it would be huge, but as we got around the corner we saw a set that would have been twenty feet and we just started frothing. We watched it for about 20 mins and it looked really out of control because the tide was so low. Everyone seemed pretty content watching for a while but I thought the swell was gonna drop so I got mark (Mathews) to tow me straight up. Then this bomb set come through and we just let the first coupla waves go but the third one was bigger. I don’t think he was too keen on putting me into it straight up but I was that pumped so I gave him the nod. The rest is a bit vague but I remember it took me so long to get down it then the ledge reared up, I made it off that and bottom turned into the biggest pit. The next thing I new I was getting the biggest whooping of my life. Im not to sure what happened when I was in the tube to make me fall off. I was under for a pretty long time and started to swallow the little amount of oxygen I had left in my lungs, so I started peakin a bit and ended up climbing my leggie which felt like an eternity as I must have been down pretty far.
Got a couple more nice barrels but none that big. richie and mark got out a blow up croc and gave old Stevo a nice send off with some hefty pits, and Dan Ross’s old man almost had a heart attack watching his son get slung into some caverns. My mate chook also got some sick ones on his new tow board he shaped himself.
About lunch time mark decided to strap a helmet cam to his head and on his first wave, nose dived and hit his head on the bottom. He came up with a big chunk missing from his gath and seemed like he might have had some spinal damage, so we thought it be best we called it a day. As we were leaving the stern threw out a coupla 15 ft perfect bombs and off we went to meet the ambulance at white beach (1/2 hr away).